The ever-stunning Torbay is a must for the coast climber, and there are enough climbs to keep you going for months. There are more than 25,000 feet of sea level traverses throughout Torbay, and the opportunities start at the northern end of the bay close to Babbacombe beach. The rock in the area is sound, although you’ll find it weathered in more rugged places such as Berry Head.
Anstey’s Cove, Daddyhole Main Cliff and Meadfoot Quarry are popular locations and Meadfoot Quarry is a great spot for getting the hang of climbing. Anstey’s Cove is peppered with exposed routes on walls, and they have the feeling of being much higher than they really are. The climbing in the south of Torquay is pretty disappointing as limestone is replaced by poor sandstone, but Churston on the way to the fishing town of Brixham welcomes climbing with gusto.
The Quarry and Coastguard Cliffs are always popular areas, but don’t miss the Old Redoubt as it has over 300 feet of multi-pitch climbing on offer. Most climbers don’t get beyond peering over the top, so this one’s for those of you who love a challenge!
Torbay’s coastline became famous amongst climbers during the sixties when exploration of its cliffs took on a life of its own thanks to the likes of Pat Littlejohn, Pete Biven and Frank Cannings. Some areas of the coast see seasonal climbing bans to protect nesting seabirds, and they tend to run between April and July.