Lower Sharpnose Point is one of Devon’s major climbing venues, and the jutting fins of rock that poke out towards the Atlantic look a little unstable to say the least! Don’t be put off though, this unusual crag is solid (despite its unique appearance) and great fun, and the routes are straightforward ones for their grades.
The long thin fins of Lower Sharpnose Point face north and south, and this crag needs an abseil approach. Climbers should bear in mind that access is tidal, so if you dawdle too long at the bottom at the wrong time you’ll be guaranteed wet feet. One of the best things about Lower Sharponose Point is its fantastic collection of hard face and crack climbs up to 150ft, with some challenging 30ft testpieces for those who find themselves struggling.
There are quite a few three-star routes to choose from, including The Smile (E1 5b), Pacemaker (E5 6a) and Coronary Country (E6 6b). This should be a straightforward spot to climb for the fit and experienced, but it’s worth noting that the less trodden routes on Lower Sharpnose Point can be a bit dusty.
You’ll find Lower Sharpnose Point 3.9 miles away from the centre of Bude, and you’ll find it has a tranquil atmosphere on a sunny day that softens its intimidating appearance. This is usually a quiet crag to climb, and The Smile Nick is great for a warm up.